The chain stitch bookbinding pattern dates back to the 2nd century C.E. The words “chain” and “coptic” are often used interchangeably in bookbinding to describe this pattern. The name “coptic” was given to this stitch because it was created by the ancient Copts, an ethnoreligious Christian group that has inhabited North Africa and the Sudan since antiquity.
In today’s post, I’ll teach you all about this fabulous stitch and how to create one yourself.
What is a chain stitch?
The chain (also called a “chain link” or “coptic”) stitch is a bookbinding sewing pattern that can be used on single or multi-section bindings. When formed correctly, completed stitches will look like a chain going up the spine of the book.
Chain stitches are both strong and decorative and can be used creatively in many different ways.
Where is the chain stitch used in bookbinding?
The chain stitch is very versatile. It can be used on single section books (also called pamphlet bindings), multi-section bindings or as a decorative element.
Single-section bindings (also known as a pamphlet binding)
On a single section binding, the chain is created by passing the needle from the inside of the section out, behind the thread of the previous stitch, then back into the same sewing station. The pattern is repeated along the spine until the book is complete.
The look of the chain depends on how far apart each sewing station is. When they’re closer together, it looks more like a traditional chain. As the sewing stations are spread out, the chain takes on more of a “loop” look. Both are gorgeous and fun to create.
Multi-section bindings
Bindings with multiple sections (2 or more) use a traditional chain stitch along the spine at the center sewing stations. The first and last sewing stations are always reserved for the kettle stitch.
Fun FYI: the kettle stitch is a modified form of the chain link stitch that “climbs” instead of chains.
How do you form the chain stitch bookbinding pattern?
Chain stitches hold two sections together at a time, so the first chain is sewn starting with the second section.
The process to create the chain is pretty simple:
- add the second section on top of the first
- at the sewing station, loop the needle behind the thread holding the previous two sections together. Note: if you’re working with a softcover like I am, you’ll have to pass the needle behind the thread to the right and left of the corresponding sewing station – see photos below)
- pull up to form the chain
- return the needle into the sewing station
Sewing the chain stitch for sections 3 and up
When attaching the 3rd+ sections, move the needle behind the chain stitch just above the one created to hold the first and second sections together. Then return the needle back into the current sewing station as you’ve done previously. The visual of the chain stitch begins to take shape.
Why use the chain stitch bookbinding pattern instead of some other technique?
The chain stitch builds a strong book and spine that will also lay flat. Since the chain stitch is usually exposed, it has a lot of creative potential. Just think of all the colors, thread types, thread widths etc. you could add in!
The chain stitch by itself is perfect for smaller books. Larger books need more support, so the chain stitch works better as a decorative element for those bindings instead of acting as the primary strength.
Tips for sewing the chain stitch bookbinding pattern
- Use a curved bookbinding needle to make sewing easier
- Lightly waxed or polished thread will add strength to each stitch
- Embroidery threads can peel apart during sewing, so be careful or be sure to lightly wax it
- Get started with my pamphlet binding tutorial featuring the chain stitch bookbinding pattern. It’s fun and easy (especially for kids!)
Full Video Tutorial: How to Sew a Chain Stitch Bookbinding Pattern
I hope this overview and quick tutorial was helpful!
More bookbinding goodness
✨ What tools do I need to get started bookbinding?
- Bookbinding Tools & Supplies Quick Start Guide – learn all about book making tools, which to buy first & where to go online
- Pick up my popular Complete Starter Bookbinding Tools Kit – all the bookbinding essentials in one spot
🌟 Looking for a simple way to start making books?
Try a Complete Book Materials Kit. Each one has everything you need (+ tutorials & videos) to make a beautiful book without all the fuss.
Thank you for taking me along on your book making journey!
Misty
